“Toutes mes excuses” but,

I do not understand what exactly happened at last Paris Couture week. As you might be aware of it, the collection was designed for Spring Summer 2015. And guess what, there were flowers EVERYWHERE.

“Groundbreaking” for spring, isn’t it? I suppose that either Messieurs Karl and Alexis (both particularly) were not that inspired and made do with clichés, or perhaps they realized their vocation as gardeners or even painters. God knows. I might seem cruel towards the amount of work that such collections do represent, but (stop me if I am wrong) the Chanel after show feelings (see Celebrity interviews) note in my opinion a general “over-rejuvenation” within the greatest fashion brands (Prêt-à-porter included). Please, have a look.

“To be light”, Monsieur Gaspard, it was the case without any doubt. A Chanel cropped top? Chanel low-waisted skirts? CHANEL sequins beanies?! Coco, could you just please come back to life and save perhaps the remaining Chanel relics? I mean Tweed and hats.

It is disappointing to see how decadent some of the fashion big names are going. There is a sort of young breeze in the air transforming – and by the way clearing – every single classic and timeless touch. At the rate of? Perhaps the “Young Forever” motto. Look at the Burberry Spring Summer 2015 collection designed by Christopher Bailey. It highlights bold and italic the same point. Where was Burberry at all?

Bringing the Couture in the streets, as Saint Laurent did, or injecting new blood into the Prêt-à-porter is not decadent. On the contrary, such acts are honorable, and signs of open-mindedness as well. Yet Jeremy Scott simply “over-did” it in the two last Moschino collections. There are limits to be broken, I agree, but the other 50% of the time to be respected. Far enough with that topic. However, I can easily imagine writing exclusively about it. Another time.

Despite my complain about the Couture flowers overwhelmed catwalks, I would like to push forward all the dressmakers behind every single Couture looks. The reason is that those people are essential, even if that fact tends to be too easily forgotten. Here the “Dior Haute Couture SS15 making of a dress” video to remind the amount of work, energy, and most of all, know-how that are in any designer’s shadow. 

/C.

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2 February 2015

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