While gender boundaries are getting exploded, men make actually (good) use of it. They wear eyeshadow for Ann Demeulemeester last AW15 collection – back to the rockstars in a way, and that’s fine because Johnny’s eyeliner have more than sex appeal. They also wear holed knitwear at the Chi’s position, by Craig Green – as if the males weren’t originally sensitive enough, one pierces the shield right in the middle. At least, Yohji Yamamoto made them dirty, bearded – back to the primitive roots. 

Nice for the (over) weaker sex though. Menswear, womenswear, nobody cares anymore. Women enjoy male clothing and men keep updated and dress…“feminine“. This goes without forgetting that eroticism is not exclusively a girls’ stuff: transparency unveils the males, how delightful.

Like everything else in the present era, REDEFINITION is the motto. “In an ideal world, masculinity wouldn’t exist” (Huffington Post). American designer Rick Owen (below) likes the ambiguity created by the two sexes, male/female. He is “satisfied with two“. Such an ambiguity has to be observed on the runway last February. The connection to the body from the clothes has surely evolved: it is not obvious anymore. That is why fashion writer Angelo Flaccavento justifies an “automatic switch between the two sexes“. There is for men no “real androgyny“, no “real effeminate“ aura, according to him.

Is masculinity in crisis then? Considered as a social construction by some, natural by others, one thing is sure: men are continually asked to prove their masculinity…by being strong, tough, violent, successful, pissing in public, among other (absurd) stereotypes.

The world is wounded. Women are wounded. MEN are wounded. And words are missing. “Be a man“, “Grow some balls“, “Stop with your emotions“, “Don’t cry“, seem to have been way too much told to boys in their childhood. So much that it restricted them. The everyday life refuses to value any kind of HIS feminization. The situation has completely reversed in the fashion industry for a while now. What does that mean? Are men starting their acceptation as sensitive human beings via some non spoken communication, as they are gently but surely getting used to the words that have been for too long refused to them? Perhaps.

Feminism might have killed macho men for good. So, let them be who (the hell) they want to be and assert originality. It appears that they are removing the stereotype mask and becoming what was more than once expected: aesthetes. To one or another feminist heroine: content? /C.

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10 September 2015

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