Mirroring not only the tortured psychedelic years of Monsieur Saint Laurent, last ready-to-wear SS16 show venue promoted a multifaceted ‘perfect imperfection’. Grunge princesses revisited femininity. Predominant short dresses draw a comfortable 2015’s lifestyle, while long ones speak for an insecure social climate. Present European situation being not flourishing, Saint Laurent’s amazons go not with the flow but impose their own. Taking shelter in Glastonbury festival nostalgia, models share a rebel gaze. History matches Hedi Slimane’s injected aesthetics into Yves Saint Laurent’s heritage, i.e. music and youth subculture.

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Slimane has kept the Saint Laurent house based on the concepts of evidence and desirability, therefore dressing women with wearable and laid-back clothes. He looked back at the minimal aesthetics of the 1994s, Calvin Klein announcing The Emperor New Clothes, i.e. the return of the slip dress.

CalvinKlein-SaintLaurent-slipdress

With Vionnet in mind, Hedi materialized freedom through garment’s ease of movement. However, Saint Laurent’s neck and head free slip dresses have gone grunge. Playing on ambiguity, Hedi dressed up girls, if not children, while exposing at the same time off duty women. Slightly suggesting porn, Saint Laurent’s woman assumed her sexuality moving back from fashion’s ever-traditional representations of impossible beauty to the ‘heroin chic’ polemic. Convinced that “the shoes set up the tone and attitude“, Slimane’s wellies are actually pointing at the disconnection he wanted from couture. Black blazers as well as leather jackets are key pieces. Hedi Slimane updated the formers “with the nervous look of a 1930s tux“, i.e. it “now has its ‘grain de poudre’ “.

SaintLaurent-heritage

Translating the age of innocence, Hedi Slimane has followed YSL’s steps. The displaced centre of gravity to the one or both bare shoulders re-joins YSL’s flou dressmaking expressing “the meaning of the material“, which has to flow over the body. SS16’s designs project through the fabric the individual’s narrative of escaping from the present. Slightly chaotic, Saint Laurent SS16 hyperrealism brings back hedonism, a 70s and 80s fashion perspective, in order perhaps to counterbalance 3D fashion design’s perfection. Undeniably pointing at women’s bodies – seemingly still a societal concern – Saint Laurent’s skinny androgynous ideal breaks as well the gender binary. Today punk heroines, women want to be inspired by and for the real life.

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/C.

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26 October 2015

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